Not the prettiest, but better than the other placement options. The top of it got a redo as well to make a hole for the USB charger. The power switch is already glued in here, and you can see the button wires coming from behind the foam pieces to cushion the battery. The power connector to the battery (JST I think) was too thick to fit in the case normally, so the dremel and I got busy to fix that. It probably still worked but I don't have that style of gameboy so. I mounted the PowerBoost 1000c inside a gameboy game from when I had a gameboy as a kid (TMNT). We got case mods, basic parts layout, power systems, and buttons. Got a lot of work done today and last night. Dropping the ability to do N64 and probably the PS1 as well, but it runs everything else before that all right. A Pi zero however is about 15 bucks once you factor in shipping. I maybe could de-solder the majority of the parts and fit it that way but for 40 dollars, I'd rather not have to buy a new one. Lots of reasons but the main one is with the gigantor battery, there isn't enough room for a pi 3. Okay, so I officially switched to a Pi zero. September 17, Starting to really come together Nicholas Hill.The foam from earlier has been replaced with cardboard from an engineering pad for a more distributed insulator and base. This was without screws, and the screen is upside down again because the config file dropped, and lost the line I added to flip the screen. Here's some pictures from before I took it all back apart to fix the issues outlined above. This is really bad for the OS and also aggravating for troubleshooting. I keep losing configurations etc due to the controller board not working correctly and having to shut it down by simply dropping power. On a happy note today is the start of fall break so hopefully I can get some time in actually working on it.įinally, I'm adding in a separate button to kill the pi before I kill power. A Low Pass band filter is being made, the capacitors just came in yesterday. The audio is having some issues getting sound out at all, all I can hear now is the induced processor noise. The solid copper wires are just too damn stiff and keep breaking out of the solder mount holes on the pi and the controller board. This will make them sit evenly with the AB buttons and allow the silicone button pad to be mounted behind them.Īlso if you're starting this project, don't use solid copper cabling for the wires. This involves some fun dremel work to grind down the grey button bracket to just two small plastic arcs for each button. The A and B buttons are great, this is basically going to make the X and Y identical functionally. I reordered some of the silicone button pads and am redoing how the buttons are held in place. So the buttons for the X and Y functions are not working out. 6 October, Lessons learned Nicholas Hill.A lot of people (relative to me) have been seeing this project, so I want to get it finished up and cut out some instructions for it when I'm totally finished so hopefully someone else can make them one too without as much hassle. A lot of this will be done after the 13th, with logs as we go. Also the caps for the audio filter came in, so we can make a low pass filter for the audio to get rid of some of the processor noise. I keep loosing my config file because I get into a game, and have no way to back out to the main menu to shut down the pi. I need to put in some option for an escape key, and also somehow a graceful shutdown command to the pi board. I also am redoing the thumb buttons (specifically the x and y buttons) to make them click better like the A and B buttons. I have braided copper wires hopefully in my mailbox today to rewire the entire project because the solid copper wires are putting too much force on the pi and control board whenever I move them and I get a lot of solder breaks as a result. Alright, semester is winding down! Got 3 finals in the next couple of weeks then it's back to me time for a couple of weeks.
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